Cepes with parsley and garlic
Cepes a la bordelaise (France)

Cepes - pennybuns, porcini, Boletus edulis - are the big bouncy brown fungi with the spongy yellow underpinnings. Baskets of them are to be found on sale in the markets of Bordeaux from July onwards, and this is is the most delicious way of preparing them.

Quantity Serves 3 -4 as a starter

Time Preparation and cooking: 30 mins

500g/1 lb fine fresh cepes
 4-5 tablespoons of olive oil
Salt and pepper
A handful of flat-leaf parsley
2 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons fresh breadcrumbs

Utensils a frying pan.

Wipe and slice the cepes - removing, if you prefer, the spongy underparts (I don't bother unless I have a glut - but then I like the gluey texture). Sprinkle with a little salt and set aside. Chop the parsley and crush the garlic. You need plenty of parsley - 4 heaped tablespoons is not too much.

Put the oil to heat in a frying-pan. When it's warm but not smoking, put in the sliced fungi. Cook them gently for a few minutes - the wetter the day, the longer they need - until they yield up their water and start to sizzle once more. Add the garlic and parsley, and allow all to cook together gently for 5 minutes.

Season with salt and pepper, and then stir in enough breadcrumbs to absorb all the juices. Turn the heat up for a moment. They are done. Serve piping hot with bread for mopping and a red wine from the Loire. Follow with a plain-grilled steak and sauteed potatoes fried in more butter and oil and the pan drippings from the fungi.
 
For the digestion, a green salad which includes chervil and a touch of bitter chicory.

To find out more about Elisabeth Luard's European Peasant Cookery, click here